Four Season Gear

What is the best/cheapest way to climb Aconcagua?

I’m planning to climb Aconcagua next winter, in the month of December. I recognize that the gear list is pretty extensive, and the guides can cost a lot of money. What expedition company offers the best value for this monster of a mountain? Answers from people who have climbed Aconcagua would be extra valuable for me. Thanks!
The reason for choosing Aconcagua is because of it’s prominence, ease of access, and of course for the experience of being on top of the Western Hemisphere. If I’m going to travel to S. America, I want to make sure that I get the 7 Summits experience. I’m by no means underestimating the mountain, and have climbed some pretty decent mountains here in the states, but this will definitely be a big step up. This is going to be my first 15,000+ ft. peak. Thanks for all your insights! Very useful.

I have not climbed it myself but know several friends who did back in the 1970’s. In fact, my boyfriend back then lost all ten of his toes to frostbite after being stranded below the summit all night after making the top too late in the day.

There are two commonly climbed routes. The “standard” route is basically a long, non-technical slog up wave after wave of broken scree slopes (my friend who did it described it as “boring torture.”) it is said to be so tedious that legend has it more than one climber threw themselves over cliffs on the way up to kill themselves rather than go on (kinda doubt that but I think it makes the point.) The more “alpine” route is the Polish Glacier. I think when you consider “value” you have to think of what your life is worth. The guy I know who climbed the Polish Glacier route with guides used Mountain Travel and was very satisfied with their skill and professionalism. My other friends went on their own, without a guide (though they hired locals with donkeys to bring some heavy gear to base camp.) The climb did not offer any severe climbing challenges, though they fixed ropes at some of the rocky sections. One guy described it as “Mount Rainier on steroids”.

I think the major challenge with Aconcagua is that it is too technically “easy” (doesn’t have a lot of steepness or exposure) and it tempts people with not that much alpine skill to get in over their heads or to make poor decisions (like my boyfriend did by carrying on to the summit so late in the day.)

There are more challenging, accessible and beautiful peaks in the Andes, especially in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru and the Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Curious why you would choose Aconcagua — just because it is the tallest?

Climbing Tools: Equalised Anchors (again)